Have a question about a pattern? Check here! I might have answered your question already.

Have a question? Check here before emailing me- I might have already answered your question!

I also recommend joining the Emily Ringelman Designs group on Ravelry and posting questions you have there. It's possible that someone had the same question and can help out!

How do I ____ (work Kitchener stitch, wrap and turn for short rows, join to work in the round, etc.)? 
If I didn't explain myself well enough in the pattern, then I recommend several things: Google it (the Google machine knows everything), ask about it in my group or in another group on Ravelry, or check http://knittinghelp.com. If, after exhausting everything the internet has to offer, you are still confused, then you can email me at emily.ringelman@gmail.com.

On pattern support (ie when you email me questions about patterns): 
I hate to have to say it, but I have a non-knitting job (like you, I'm sure), and I don't always have time to reply right away to pattern questions. If the question is about a free pattern, I may not have time to reply at all. I'm sorry to say it, but I can't offer much pattern support for free patterns. If something is wrong with the pattern I will absolutely work to fix the issue, but I can't walk you through techniques over email.

Hi, the pattern says to do this, is that right?
Yes, if the pattern says to do it then that's what I mean to do. I promise that I'm not trying to trick you or lead you astray. For example, if the pattern says to purl one stitch at the end of every row, then I mean to purl one stitch at the end of every row.

My knitting looks weird, is this ok?
Most likely, yes. A lot of things just need a good blocking! Short rows, some patterning (like the bubble stitch on the bottom of my Bit of Whimsy hand towel), colorwork, all of that needs a proper wet blocking before it looks pretty. Never fear! I have not led you astray in the pattern.

What size ____ should I knit (hat, sweater, whatever)?
You'll find that I put "recommended ease" right up at the top of the pattern under "Size." There will be a list of finished sizes, usually a list of "to fit bust/head/hips" size x/y/z, then a recommendation about ease. For example, for the Vistoire sweater, the smallest finished size is 33" at the bust. Under the finished sizes, I say that the size 33" will fit a person whose actual bust is 35" to 37." If your actual bust is 35" to 37", choose the size 33." If you really hate tight sweaters, then feel free to go up to the next size.
For hats I almost always recommend about 2" of negative ease, meaning the finished hat should be 2" smaller than your actual head.

How hard is this pattern?
I dislike categorizing patterns by "difficulty." I think that any knitter can knit any pattern she wants, provided she is willing to make the effort to learn new techniques. I always list "skills needed" at the top of my patterns. If you don't have those skills yet, that's ok! The Google machine knows all about working short rows, and the i-cord bind off, and lots of other knitting tricks. If I use an unusual technique in the pattern, it will be explained in detail where necessary. So I say knit patterns you like, learn what you need to along the way, and improve your skills! That's how we all learn.

I'm having difficulty with the first few rows of the Everett Henley. Help please?
This is not tv knitting. It requires careful attention initially!

Here's a synopsis of what's happening for the first few rows.
Say you've done the raglan set-up row, the 1st raglan increase row, and then a WS row. Now you're ready for the first lace row. First find the chart for your size at the end of the pattern. You will Kf&b into the first stitch, then slip the raglan marker. This might be where it's confusing; the M1R for the raglan seam is actually shown on the chart. So M1R according to the chart, then K1, M1L, slip the next raglan marker. Then you'll knit between 0 and 7 stitches, depending on which size you're making, then place a different color or type of marker for the lace. Work the lace chart over the stated number of stitches, then place another lace marker, then knit the stated number of stitches for your size. Now you're at the next raglan seam. Slip the marker, increase as before, slip the next marker, and now you're on the back. Follow the instructions for how many stitches to knit, place the lace marker, work the lace chart, place the next lace marker, work the stated number of knit stitches. Again, slip the raglan marker, increase, slip the 2nd marker, repeat the sleeve lace like you did before. Slip the marker, M1R, k1. Follow the right front chart, which includes the raglan M1L, then slip the marker and kf&b into the last stitch. 

So that's the first RS row. On the next row, the WS row, slip all raglan markers as you come to them. Be sure to work the lace chart on the WS rows. 

Once there are 8 knit stitches between a raglan marker and a lace marker, work the lace chart over those stitches and move the lace marker to the outside of these new lace stitches. You'll get the hang of it after a few rows. 

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